Retrodiva's Beauty Bar: aha

I was contacted recently by NeoStrata, the brand behind Exuviance with an offer to try out their anti-aging and anti-acne kit. I was very excited to even know that there was such a thing. It seems that often if you're in the market for anti-acne, you have to look to the young person's section of the drugstore. If you're in the market for anti-aging you aren't even in the same aisle. Exuviance is here to help with all of that, combining ingredients that work simultaneously on the anti-acne and the anti-aging front.

The kit contains Moisturizing Antibacterial Facial Cleanser, Sheer Refining Fluid SPF 15, Night Renewal HydraGel, Purifying Clay Masque, and Matte Perfection. I tried everything in the kit, so I'm going to break it down by product.

First up is the Moisturizing Antibacterial Facial Cleanser. This is a very gentle cleanser with an active ingredient of triclosan (0.3%), a common antibacterial agent. It also has PHA's, or polyhydroxy acids which are also supposed to provide anti-aging benefits. According to Skin911.com, PHA's "are the next generation of AHAs in skin care, are natural and nontoxic. In the polyhydroxy acids category are lactobionic acid, galactose and gluconic acid. A special type of AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) known to

Modulate keratinization, cell development in the top layer of skin.
Normalize stratum corneum (outermost layer of skin involving the last stage of cell development) exfoliation and thickness. Aging slows the exfoliation process down allowing cells to remain on the skin causing a lack luster appearance.
Distinct advantage when used on sensitive skin due to a larger molecular size allowing gentle topical penetration, decreasing sensitivity and discomfort.
Sensitive skin, such as rosacea, atopic dermatitis, eczema, seborrhea and in hyperkeratosis (abnormal cell turn over) associated with psoriasis, ichthyosis, and keratosis pilaris are skin conditions benefiting from this advantage."

All of which are fabulous on the anti-aging front, but for those of us with breakout issues, there isn't much exfoliating power there. I actually had to discontinue my use of this cleanser because it just wasn't exfoliating off the sebum on my skin, leading to breakouts. However, if you are only mildly prone to breakouts, this product may very well be the answer to your oily skin/anti-aging dilemma. It just didn't work for me.

The next product in my kit that I used on a daily basis was the Exuviance Sheer Refining Fluid. This is similar to a moisturizer, and should be used as such. It has a broad spectrum SPF 15 level, which is key in any anti-aging product, in my opinion. It also has a unique botanical blend called Phytotal, which is supposed to help control surface sebum over time. To boost the anti-aging properties, it has another unique ingredient balled NeoGlucosamine which is designed to smooth the skin while fading dark and pigmented spots on the skin. I liked this moisturizer a good deal. I don't know that it really controlled my oil, but I haven't found a single product that actually does that, no matter what the claims are, so I don't have high expectations in that area. But it certainly wasn't greasy at all, and it didn't feel like I had a veil of thick cream on my face.

The Night Renewal HydraGel was designed to be used only at night. This light gel has a combination of PHA and AHA's to help exfoliate the skin, which refines and repairs it. It also has Phytotal to help control sebum. This was also a very light product that I liked a great deal for nighttime use. The gel formulation wasn't greasy at all, and it didn't cause breakouts.

Designed for weekly use, the Purifying Clay Masque has kaolin clay to absorb surface oil and packs a punch with more PHA's for hydrating skin. This is a great clay mask, and there are so many on the market right now. It might be my favorite product out of this whole line. My skin felt really refreshed after this application, and I tend to use these about twice a week, depending on what sort of state my skin is in.

Matte Perfection is one of the new formulations that are designed to go either underneath or over makeup to give the skin more of a matte look. It is also formulated with AHA's and PHA's for skin benefits. I think this is a perfectly lovely product, and will probably work well with most skin types - except for mine. It just didn't do much to mattify, and I like these types of products to be formulated with salicylic acid, or BHA's to really help remove the oil. Again, my skin is really finicky, and requires a bit of beating down, so don't think that my experience is universal.

All in all, I think this is a great system for those who have oily skin but don't tend to have breakouts. If you're more interested in anti-aging versus anti-acne, this is right up your alley, and you should certainly give it a try. As for me, I'm back to my anti-acne regimen before things get really bad!

All products can be found at Amazon, Ulta, and SkinStore.com.

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Have I mentioned how much I love reader mail? No? Well, it makes me happy. And I love questions the best. It makes me break out all my researching skills to come up with a reasonable answer. Here is this week's question:

Q: I read a lot about products that use alpha and/or beta hydroxy acids for my skin. What is the difference between the two and how are they beneficial?

A: Excellent question! The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids (AHA's) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA's) is their ability to dissolve lipids or oils. AHA's are only water soluable and cannot penetrate surface sebum or oil. BHA's are able to penetrate the sebum and are recommended for skin that is prone to breakouts. On the other hand, AHA's are perfect for skin that is sun-damaged without breakout problems.

The most common AHA's are glycolic and lactic acids derived from fruit and milk sugars. Other AHA's are citric and malic acid. They work mainly as exfoliants, removing dead skin cells and may or may not stimulate the skin's production of collagen and elastin. When purchasing a product with AHAs, look for a percentage of 5 to 8%. AHAs can increase sun sensitivity, so be sure to use a good sunscreen during treatment.

There is only one BHA, and that is salicylic acid, which is derived from asprin. BHA products work best with a concentration of 1 to 2%, and most acne treatment products use 2%, which seems to be the magic number for truly problematic skin. BHAs also work as exfoliants, but are able to penetrate through the sebum layer on the skin into the pore to remove buildup there, which is why many blackhead treatment products feature BHAs. Again, it's important to use sunscreen during treatment, as BHAs have been known to increase photosensitivity.

Photo by thebettymae on flickr