Product Review: SensiClear Deluxe Acne System

The SensiClear system is designed for those with sensitive skin who experience some problems with breakouts. While I've heard that this system seems to be "Proactiv Lite," I can tell you that the two systems are radically different, and probably wouldn't work for the same person. Proactiv contains benzoil peroxide and salicylic acid, while SensiClear contains salicylic acid only.

The set consists of four different products: Purifying Cleanser, Balancing Toner, Blemish Free Acne Treatment Lotion, and Blemish Free Acne Spot Treatment. Each product has it's pros and cons.

The Purifying Cleanser is a clear gel and it has a powerful smell - almost minty, but I can't really put my finger on what it is. Worth noting because if you are sensitive to fragrances, this might not work for you. The cleanser works well, although it doesn't contain salicylic acid - it's just a standard cleanser that does a great job of making your face feel wonderfully clean.

SensiClear's Balancing Toner is one of the most interesting toners I've ever tried. Again, there is a high fragrance level here, so be warned. However, this isn't a liquid like other toners - it's more of a gel. I found that I didn't always feel like one squirt of toner was enough for my entire face, and found myself using more than I probably needed because I wasn't used to the consistency. The active ingredient is 0.5% salicylic acid (most anti-acne products have 2%).

The standout product of this line, in my opinion, is the Blemish Free Acne Treatment Lotion. It's a very good moisturizer that settles in instantly and doesn't leave a ton of greasiness behind. It's one of the few moisturizers out there that has salicylic acid in it, at a concentration of 0.5%, not too shabby for a moisturizer. I'd avoid using it around the eyes, however.

Last in the set is the Blemish Free Acne Spot Treatment. This is a stronger formulation, at 2% salicylic acid, and is to be used only on blemishes as needed. I find this to be comparable to other blemish lotions. It's not as light as the gels out there, but it seems to get the job done.

Overall, I think this is a perfect set for those with sensitive skin who don't need large amounts of salicylic acid to fight breakouts. Unfortunately, I am not one of those people. If I don't beat my skin down with salicylic acid at a 2% concentration, I'm going to regret it. I used the system for 30 days, but at the end of that period, I went right back to what I was using before with more than my typical blemishes on my face.

If you are interested in trying this system, it does come with a risk free guarantee if you order it through the SensiClear.com site. My only issue with the site and the ordering process is that it seems to be a club of some sort where you sign up for scheduled deliveries. However, SkinStore.com has a great price on them right now, although I'm not sure of their return policy.

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Product Review: Mario Badescu's Silver Powder

My skin has been in crisis lately. I'm not sure exactly what is going on, but it's been a real mess lately. I've been pulling out all the stops to get it back under control.

Enter Mario Badescu's Silver Powder. I swear, I can't find a single product in this entire line that doesn't do exactly what it claims and in some cases, even more. The powder works by breaking down the oil trapped in your pores. Used once or twice a week, you should notice less clogged pores.

To use, just dip a cotton ball in a touch of water, just enough to make one side damp. Then use the damp side of the cotton to pick up a good amount of the powder and press it into the oily areas on your face. Usually this is the t-zone area on most people - forehead, nose and chin. However, if you're like me and you're oily everywhere, then use it freely. Let it set for 10 minutes, then remove it with a toner or astringent. I personally use Special Cleansing Lotion C, but use what you have.

You can purchase the entire Mario Badescu line at MarioBadescu.com. It's also available at Fred Segal Beauty in Los Angeles, Henri Bendel in New York City, select Nordstrom and other specialty shops nationwide. Locally, the Norfolk Nordstrom and the Virginia Beach Ulta carries the line.

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Total Beauty Looks at the Best and Worst Acne Products

12 Best & Worst Acne Products

Zits happen, so trust these unbiased reader reviews to tell you which acne products actually deliver

Sure, dealing with acne in your teens is cruel -- but in your 20s, 30s and 40s? That's just plain unfair. Here we uncover the top reader-tested acne-fighting products, as well as the products that did not deliver results, so you can save your time and money. See products

The Best: No. 6: Clinique Acne Solutions Clarifying Lotion, $13.50

TotalBeauty.com average rating: 8.7*

Even those who have "tried everything and nothing worked" claim this product is "like a miracle..."

No. 5: The Body Shop Tea Tree Oil, $9

TotalBeauty.com average rating: 8.8*

"Just a dab with a Q-tip is all it takes for my pimples to be drastically reduced overnight..."

No. 4: Peter Thomas Roth Gentle Complexion Correction Pads, $36

TotalBeauty.com average rating: 8.9*

"The pads smell great, clear up acne, soften up lines and get your skin glowy..."

Want to see the rest of the best (and find out the worst)? Click here!

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Exfoliation Is Important: Three Primary Types

No matter how flawless your makeup application is, the most important part of your look is the condition of your skin. If you don’t have a good canvas, then you will have a difficult getting a smooth, flawless finish. Exfoliation is a crucial step to achieving clear, glowing skin because it removes dead skin along with debris to reveal the new layer of skin underneath. Exfoliation is typically done once or twice a week, depending on the results desired.

There are three primary types of exfoliation for the skin: manual, enzyme, and chemical. One or a combination of these may be the most appropriate for your skin type, depending on the specific needs of your skin. Manual exfoliation is the most popular, and the easiest to find.

Manual exfoliation involves removing the dead skin cells physically, such as a washcloth, puff, or even fingers. Typically, these exfoliant products have granules such as ground solid ingredients such as almonds or “beads” created with synthetic ingredients. You can often find such things as crystals and even sand in these types of products. Higher end products tend to stick with rounder additives for these, as they tend to not scrape the skin like an ingredient with jagged edges.

Enzyme exfoliation uses enzymes, which are highly specialized proteins, which can help break down the dead cell layer which lays on the top layer of the skin. These can be very useful for sensitive skin types, as they don’t require pressure or friction to work. However, for an enzyme exfoliant to work, it needs to have the correct strength and pH balance.

Chemical exfoliation includes an ingredient such as alpha hydroxy acids or beta hydroxy acids which help loosen the sebum which traps dead skin against the skin. These are most beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin and don’t require pressure or friction to work, although many products combine this type of exfoliant with a manual exfoliant.

Deciding which of the exfoliation methods can often involve some trial and error. Taking into consideration your skin type and sampling the different methods will yield amazing results.

Photo by hdconnelly via Flickr.

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Waging and Winning the War Against Acne: Mario Badescu

I have always struggled with acne. From the minute my hormones took to making my life a living hell, I’d started to see little red bumps popping up all over my face. I was twelve, an evil age when dealing with acne, and looking for a solution. Thousands of dollars and fourteen years later, I’ve finally found it.
Natural ingredients that are gentle enough for my sensitive skin but strong enough for my acne have always been the “impossible dream” for me until now. Mario Badescu created a Glycolic Foaming Cleanser that with the help of Chamomile, Yarrow extract and St. John’s Wort has literally saved my skin. The scent is important to me, so imagine my joy when I breathed in that first sniff and felt immediately relaxed with its clean, natural scent. I only have to use a dime-size amount, twice a day, which is fabulous with a tight budget like mine. The 6 oz. bottle retails for $15.00 at Nordstrom. I bought this bottle 3 months ago and I still have over half the bottle left! Within the first week of use, I noticed my skin feeling softer, healthier, like it was breathing for the first time.
The second (and only other!) step in this process is Mario’s Drying Mask. It retails for $18.00 and is a 2 oz. tub. I have used a little more of this product, although I still have half the tub left! It uses colloidal sulfur to pull toxins to the surface and then absorbs them out of your pores. The sulfur smell does take a bit to get used to but if you have experienced acne for as long and with as much suffering as I have, a little stink will be just fine. After a month of using it, it doesn’t even bother me anymore. This Drying Mask is the ticket to keeping your pores clear and breathing. The first two nights I used it, I covered my face and slept with it on over night. By Day 3, I had significantly less pimples than on Day 1. Now, 3 months later, I use the mask on my entire face once a week and spot treat when I have an eruption. Might I add that by putting the mask on the pimple/problem area and letting it work through the night, I cut back my outbreaks by half. Instead of having to deal with 5-10 pimples at a time, I now only deal with 1-2.
I understand there is a huge amount of skepticism that comes along with the treatment of acne. I lived it. I am still amazed by the drastic changes I have seen by using Mario Badescu’s two products. I recommend this for anyone who likes to understand everything there is to know about the products they use. You can also learn more about these two products and many more by going online to: www.mariobadescu.com From one skeptic to another, it may not be impossible to have beautiful skin.

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Are Female and Male Acne Really Different?

There is a theory out there that acne is caused by two different things in men and women. Acne in women is usually caused by estrogen and progesterone and acne in men is caused by testosterone. I think this is probably very true if you're prone to hormonal acne.

And if you are, there is a new natural system out there that might work for you.The CTRL Clear Skin System was developed with the differences between men and women in mind.

Here are five facts about women's acne that you might find interesting, according to CTRL:

• female skin is 25% thinner and more delicate than men's skin
• female skin typically creates less oil than male skin and is more sensitive to harsh ingredients
• female skin is more acidic than male skin creating a drier skin surface
• female skin is more sensitive to breakouts and acne infections than male skin

Conversely, we have the following regarding male skin:

• male skin is affected by testosterone and circulating DHT
• male skin skin has significantly more DHT receptors leading to oily skin and thick pore clogging sebum
• Male skin has a higher surface level pH than females which can lead to the potential of increased bacterial growth

The science behind CTRL is based on four factors that can trigger acne: hyperkeratinization, sebum production, infection and inflammation. The system uses a proprietary 5 alpha Phyto-Technology featuring patented ingredients that attack the root source of acne by reducing oil/sebum production while also delivering prebiotic complexes that are designed to kill bacteria deep in the pores. Salicylic acid is used to clear away dead skin cells and other debris.

The system includes a face wash and treatment cream. It's easy to use, and works well. I used the system for a month, and had wonderfully clear skin with very few problem breakouts, and those were probably my own fault, since they always cropped up after I forgot to wash my face.

In the interest of telling it like it is, I want to warn you: the smell of these products is not good. I'm told that it is due to the nature of all-natural ingredients, and the fact that there is no added fragrances to the product. I think it would be ideal for those who not only suffer from acne, but have sensitive skin to boot.

An extremely effective system if you can handle the smell. Grab a starter kit for only $6.95 - you get the facial cleanser, treatment cream, and a bonus spot treatment. It's an excellent deal.

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Product Review: Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash Daily Scrub

If you are looking for the highest concentration of beta hydroxy acid (BHA or salicylic acid) on the market Neutrogena Oil Free Acne Wash Daily Scrub is for you. BHAs are the only known agent that can penetrate through the layer of sebum (oil) and get down into the pore to prevent and treat breakouts. The bonus with this scrub is that it also has physical exfoliants that, while probably ineffective on actual pore cleansing, certainly feel good. And those physical exfoliants still work well to clear away dead or flaky skin, so that's well worth it. This is my go-to scrub, and I use it in conjunction with the Oil Free Acne Wash. The grapefruit one is exactly the same as this, only it has a fruity grapefruit scent. Perfect for those of us who deal with acne on a daily basis, and especially those of us who have adult skin.

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Ask Me Mondays: Small Bumps on Upper Arms

Q: I have the most annoying small red bumps on my upper arms and sometimes on my thighs. I know they aren't acne, but sometimes I can squeeze them and something comes out. I know, that's gross. But what are they, and what can I do about them?

It really sounds to me like you have a very common inherited skin disorder called keratosis pilaris. You're right: it's not acne! And don't squeeze them - it doesn't help, and it can lead to scarring if you're not careful.

Here are the basics on keratosis pilaris: it's very, very, very common - up to 50% of adults have it. Sometimes it looks red and inflamed, sometimes it just looks like goosebumps. It can get worse in the winter when the air is dry, but not always. Sometimes it makes your skin feel like sandpaper, if the bumps are small and fine. Basically, there is no one identifying symptom, other than bumps, that makes this stand out.

How do you get it? You inherit it. Thanks, mom! Your skin in the problem areas creates too much of a certain protein called keratin which then builds up in and around the hair folicule, causing the clog which leads to the bump. It is a completely harmless condition, and sometimes goes away completely on it's own as the skin produces less keratin due to aging. Others have it all their lives.

Treatment is usually somewhat ineffective, but I wonder if this is because people eventually stop the treatment altogether. Given the nature of this disorder, you would have to commit to a long term treatment using alpha and beta hydroxy acids which help clear the bumps, and moisturizing, which helps calm the dry skin which can make the situation worse.

Many sources seem to think products containing lactic acid work the best, although it seems that any kind of AHAs are recommended across the board. BHAs (salicylic acid) is also thought to be helpful to penetrate inside the bumps, but may be unnecessary on already dry skin.

One of the few keratosis pilaris treatments I have found is the DERMAdoctor Keratosis Pilaris Regimen Kit. You use the DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Body Scrub with Chemical + Physical Medi-Exfoliation in the bath or shower to cleanse and exfoliate dry skin, and then use then apply DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Moisturizing Therapy For Dry Skin to arms and/or legs or where needed twice daily or as often as needed. Both items come in the set.

An extremely helpful site for you is here: Help for Keratosis Pilaris

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Ask Me: What is the Difference Between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids?

Have I mentioned how much I love reader mail? No? Well, it makes me happy. And I love questions the best. It makes me break out all my researching skills to come up with a reasonable answer. Here is this week's question:

Q: I read a lot about products that use alpha and/or beta hydroxy acids for my skin. What is the difference between the two and how are they beneficial?

A: Excellent question! The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids (AHA's) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA's) is their ability to dissolve lipids or oils. AHA's are only water soluable and cannot penetrate surface sebum or oil. BHA's are able to penetrate the sebum and are recommended for skin that is prone to breakouts. On the other hand, AHA's are perfect for skin that is sun-damaged without breakout problems.

The most common AHA's are glycolic and lactic acids derived from fruit and milk sugars. Other AHA's are citric and malic acid. They work mainly as exfoliants, removing dead skin cells and may or may not stimulate the skin's production of collagen and elastin. When purchasing a product with AHAs, look for a percentage of 5 to 8%. AHAs can increase sun sensitivity, so be sure to use a good sunscreen during treatment.

There is only one BHA, and that is salicylic acid, which is derived from asprin. BHA products work best with a concentration of 1 to 2%, and most acne treatment products use 2%, which seems to be the magic number for truly problematic skin. BHAs also work as exfoliants, but are able to penetrate through the sebum layer on the skin into the pore to remove buildup there, which is why many blackhead treatment products feature BHAs. Again, it's important to use sunscreen during treatment, as BHAs have been known to increase photosensitivity.

Photo by thebettymae on flickr

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